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EoLMar15-16

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Baldwin Key Bushing removal (Patrick Poulson)

----- Original Message -----
From: Patrick C. Poulson <pcpoulso@pacbell.net>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2001 2:23 PM
Subject: Re: Baldwin key bushing removal

Hi All! I have had occasion to do this kind of bushing removal before. I
got a tip from Yvonne Ashmore to use a mix of ammonia and water to presoak
the bushings, the theory being that the ammonia loosens up the white glue.
The steam then can do the rest of the job. I haven't done too many like
this, but I remember this working pretty well. Patrick Poulson

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Projection and Strike Weight (Dave Stanwood)

----- Original Message -----
From: David Stanwood <dstanwood@hotmail.com>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2001 7:40 AM
Subject: Re: Improving Projection..

Dear Roo (k)

Strike Weights in the Full zone help tremendously. I have had many
occasions to see the effect in Noisy restaurants... The sound doesn't get
lost so much in the crowd of noise. (Also better for ensemble playing in
concert halls.) I'm not talking loud, I'm talking sound presence in the
room. Another word for projection?

Taking some strike weight samples would tell you a lot. Minimal sampling
recommended is notes 16,17,40,41,64,65 to get an idea of SW level across the
keyboard. In fact this should be STANDARD PROCEDURE!
Please show us your data for a more educated discussion...
For some reason small pianos tend to get lighter hammers. We've found that
smaller pianos with full zone hammer weights put out more sound...Sort of
like adding on extra length.

For a quick and reversible change try clipping on some "Small Binder Clips"
Available from stationary supply or Pianotek... Clip them on the end of the
shank and you'll see a big change in the tone. This will bring up the
strike weight by about 1.0 grams. Fuller tone and more energy in the room
will result. If the hammers are a little hard this should improve the tone
also because heavier hammers take more hardening so long as resiliency in
the felt is not destroyed totally.
I would put clips on all the shanks and let them try it for a few nights.

If this makes the action too heavy there are ways and short cuts for that as
well...

Check out this drawing for how to use the clips...

http://www.stanwoodpiano.com/clipinfo.jpg

Simply said, Concert Weight hammers work better when you need more sound
energy. That means Full zone strike weights.

Strike Weight Setup:

http://www.stanwoodpiano.com/swsetup.gif

Strike Weight Zones:

http://www.stanwoodpiano.com/sw-zones.jpg

David Stanwood

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Removing Epoxied Bridge Pins (Joe Garrett)

----- Original Message -----
From: Joseph Garrett <joegarrett@earthlink.net>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2001 7:47 PM
Subject: Removing Bridge Pins that have been EPOXIED!

Dale Erwin,
This is a problem, that can be solved fairly easily. I use a "fender Dent Puller" that has a pair of "Vice grips" attached. Works well for removing any and all Bridge Pins, even the epoxied one. I've even used it to remove Hitch pins! (but that's another story.)
Regards,
Joe Garrett

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Odorless CA Glue (Keith McGavern)

----- Original Message -----
From: <kam544@flash.net>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2001 9:41 PM
Subject: Re: Birds and Fumes

Philip, List,

If you're going to use CA glue where there is a concern such as this,
forget taking chances, or so called proper ventilation. Use Bob Smith
Super Gold thin CA. It's odorless. No fumes.

It can be ordered from LoneStar, 1-800-687-5555 (9/25/00)

Keith McGavern
Registered Piano Technician
Oklahoma Chapter 731
Piano Technicians Guild
USA

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Center pin tightness and tone projection (Roger Jolly)

----- Original Message -----
From: jolly roger <baldyam@sk.sympatico.ca>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2001 9:47 PM
Subject: Re: projection

Greetings Howard,
                            Power output is a function of how efficiently
the energy is transferred from the key to the string. ( Flame suit on, I
know over simplification)
Poor centre pinning waste a lot of energy, a critical amount of flange
friction is needed to keep the knuckle in contact with the balancier.
(typically about 4-5 swings)
Next time you find a thin sounding note in the killer octave, try changing
the centre pin before resorting to other methods, you will get a real surprise.
I also forgot to mention, the action frames are soft wood on these
instruments, and key bedding can be a major issue on projection. This is
another area where some of the energy gets lost.
I have re hammered and shanked many of this model, believe me it is a very
different piano with Abel hammers and Tokawai shank's. Bigger and warmer
sound.

Another change for Phil, Mapes are now making the bass strings.

Regards Roger


At 10:06 PM 3/15/01 -0500, you wrote:
>Hi Roger,
>
>You recently wrote:
>
><!--StartFragment-->Check the hammer flange pinning 4-5 swings. Any more
>and you lose projection.
>
>
>Please elaborate on this. Why would a looser hammer flange pinning cause a
>loss of projection?
>
>
>Howard S. Rosen, RPT
>7262 Angel Falls Ct.
>Boynton Beach, Fl 33437

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Re-bushing with hide glue (Newton Hunt)

----- Original Message -----
From: Newton Hunt <nhunt@optonline.net>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2001 6:47 AM
Subject: Re: Baldwin key bushing removal

I use a flattened upright hammer shank, sanded much like a screwdriver.
This goes through a hole in a baby food jar to rest in the glue but the
hole is just large enough for the shank to go through so the excess glue is
squeegeed off the shank. The flattened part of the shank determines how
much glue you get. The hole in the jar helps prevent evaporation and
skimming. Just remove the jar from the hot water and put a hole less lid on
it. It will keep for weeks and weeks and can be put into the microwave for
ten to twenty seconds and you have glue ready to go, almost instantly.

Use the stick to put the glue on, smooth it out and scrape off any excess.

You will still have to check for glue at the end of the bushing cloth.

I use a X-acto chisel blade which also allows me to chisel off any excess
felt that gets down into the hole.

I haven't felt the need to heat cauls but I do set some weights on the
cauls (not a lot) and leave them in over night, as Ron said. Next to no
easing BUT you need to pick your cloth so the caul fits snug in the hole
during gluing. How snug? Snug enough that you have to push it in but not
so snug as to split a sharp mortise.

Those mortises were cut in the key factory. It would be wonderful to get
some of these piece so we could unbush keys more quickly, accurately and
size the holes perfectly, all with one plunge. Anybody?!?!?!?

Newton

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