----- Original Message -----
From: <A440A@AOL.COM>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: March 13, 2001 10:28 AM
Subject: reinstallation with
>
> Well, I think if the board was clamped back into the rim, with spacers
> placed between the case struts and the bottom of the board, directly under
> the bridge, crown could be reinstalled. Just bend that puppy in there
and
> when the glue dries there should be a very slight margin between the board
> edges and the inside of the rim. (which should be filled with something
at
> least as hard as maple.
> Just a thought, think it could work?
> Ed
> ---------------------------------------------------
Without getting overly redundant -- I also wrote at some length about this
in the Journal several years back -- any crown you put in this way will not
last. The piano soundboard system cannot be regarded as an arch. The rim
will not hold crown established this way; not even a M&H rim. And wood has
to much give to it and too much creep to support crown this way even if the
rim did not give way.
Del
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----- Original Message -----
From: Kent Swafford <kswafford@earthlink.net>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2001 2:30 PM
Subject: Re: Pierce Atlas Idea
on 3/13/01 10:31 AM, John M. Formsma at jformsma@dixie-net.com wrote:
> I've been thinking over the last couple of months how nice it would be to
> have the Pierce Piano Atlas on CDROM. This way, we could have easier access
> to it while entering in customer data on our computers.
Not that this is a complete substitute by any means, but while we are
waiting for the atlas on CD, some lists of serial numbers are available on
the internet, and can be downloaded and stored on your computer.
I have found the Steinway serials numbers at the Steinway site,
the Everett and Yamaha numbers at the Yamaha site, and the
Knabe and Mason & Hamlin numbers at the Pianodisc site.
Kent Swafford
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----- Original Message -----
From: John Musselwhite <john@musselwhite.com>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2001 5:14 PM
Subject: Shameless WWW Plug
Hi Folks...
Please check out my brother James' new piano-related WWW site at:
http://www.pianoaction.com/
Jamie is also a certified PianoDisk installer as well as a pipe organ
technician. There are sections on it about both, as well as piano
restoration and service. Click on the logo to enter the site.
It's oriented towards piano owners in the Winnipeg, Canada area but it's
always good to visit another technician's site to see what they're doing.
John
John Musselwhite, RPT - Calgary, Alberta Canada
http://www.musselwhite.com http://canadianpianopage.com/calgary
mailto: john@musselwhite.com http://www.mp3.com/fatbottom
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----- Original Message -----
From: Erwinpiano <Erwinpiano@email.msn.com>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2001 5:55 PM
Subject: Re: Chickering wippens - help!!
Hi Paul
I just spoke with Mike At Pacific Piano and I believe he said that he now
has wippens for the chick. and Knabe . Check it out
Dale Erwin
----- Original Message -----
From: <Yardarm103669107@AOL.COM>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2001 11:58 AM
Subject: Re: Chickering wippens - help!!
> There is a fellow who lives on Washington Island, WI who will make you
parts
> for anything. His work is (was) quite good, and not overly expensive. If
you
> like I will research his name and address/tele.
> PR-J
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----- Original Message -----
From: gutlo <gutlo@bestweb.net>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2001 8:18 AM
Subject: Re: Plastic Lakk
----------
> From: Richard Brekne <Richard.Brekne@grieg.uib.no>
> To: PTG <pianotech@ptg.org>
> Subject: Plastic Lakk
> Date: Wednesday, March 14, 2001 11:20 AM
>
> Hi List... ran into a piano today that had been dropped on its
> back and the owners claim that the lacquer shattered as a result.
> There are certainly many long cracks in this very hard plastic
> lacquer. Sort of like the long cracks a car window can get.
>
> --
> Richard Brekne
> RPT, N.P.T.F.
> Bergen, Norway
> mailto:Richard.Brekne@grieg.uib.no
>
> Richard,
Very likely this is a polyester finish. Very hard, not very flexible, very
susceptible to "cold checking", which is what seems to have happened in
this case. The more recent polyesters show better characteristics, but
still have this tendency.
Saw a new polyester Bechstein in Brooklyn 25 years ago that came in from
Chicago in the winter, 0 degrees, entered warm house, and the entire finish
cracked (soundboard coating included). Bechstein refused to warranty,
customer had it refinished (in polyester again!) at their own expense.
PianoLac has been tested against freeze/thaw by subjecting the dry coating
to 20 freeze/thaw cycles (8hours freeze, 8 hours immediate thaw) with no
damage.
I once fixed a black polyester Kawai upright with PianoLac. It made an
invisible repair.
Perhaps some Ultra-Thick PianoLac would work. This is a very high
viscosity/solids version specifically for touch up. If you'd like to try
this waterborne piano coating for your challenging problem, let me know.
Arthur Grudko, PianoLac (StarHawk Labs)
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----- Original Message -----
From: Roy Peters <roy.peters@mindspring.com>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2001 9:25 PM
Subject: Re: Securing bridge pins with epoxy: was Pinblock Plugs
I have been doing this same basic procedure as well. I use a Sandvik cabinet
scraper to resurface the top of the bridge rather than sanding. It seems to
take less time. Also, I don't take out all of the string groove. My thinking is
that the wood has already compressed that far, and should be rather dense there
already. It seems to me that there would be a certain amount of compression set
into the wood under the string.
As Roger says, the epoxy will find it's way around any crevice it can find.
I have had it creep from the back row of pins to the front row. Last year I was
replacing bridge pins, and did the epoxy treatment to the back row of pins in
the treble section. I came back the next day to install the front row of pins,
and found that the holes had hardened epoxy in the bottom. So, I had to do some
extra drilling that I hadn't planned on. Now I always epoxy the front and back
pins at the same time, at least within a section.
Roy Peters.
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----- Original Message -----
From: Meyer Carl <cmpiano@home.com>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2001 9:25 PM
Subject: Re: Pinblock Plugs
Mr. Yardarm Sir!
Thanks for the info about the liquid wood. I've seen boxes labeled "Fragile
Liquid". Now I didn't know liquid was fragile, but I do handle those boxes
with respect. Now I learn that wood is liquid. Wow! What you can learn on
the internet.
My interest was kindled because I've used epotec 301 to restore pin blocks by
filling the pin holes and re drilling. Its expensive. About 30 dollars a
pound. It's viscosity is 100 centistokes. That's thin. Now my questions
are:
Is it a two part epoxy?
Will it harden into a solid block?
What is it's pot life?
What is its cure time?
What does thixotropic mean?
The dictionary says "the property of certain gels and emulsions of becoming
fluid when agitated and then setting again when left at rest."
I looked at their website and didn't find these specs. I could always buy a
sample and try it or ask them for specs.
Sounds like interesting stuff.
BTW Shelf life is another thing. I have epoxy that has been kicking around
for
years. Most of the time I find they're okay. I think the manufacturers use
1 year to PTA.
Thanks for the info Paul.
Carl Meyer
----- Original Message -----
From: <Yardarm103669107@AOL.COM>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2001 10:56 AM
Subject: Re: Pinblock Plugs
> Mark:
> Their Liquid Wood is a very low viscosity, pore-seeking, self-flattening
> (thixotropic) epoxy. VERY good for wood repairs where these properties are
> important; their other epoxies can go in any number of directions from
more
> brittle to higher viscosities, etc.
> PR-J
>
........................................
Paul is referring to Abatron's products. I have used two of their
products quite extensively on the exterior of my Victorian home with
remarkably good results. Great for restoration of damaged sills, drip
caps, trim no longer available, etc.
I have used their thin stuff - "Liquid Wood" for solidifying soft or
damaged wood, and their putty-consistency product called "Wood Epox" for
filling larger voids. Abatron can be reached at 1-800-445-1754.
I would not rate their stuff better or worse than West System, just
another very good choice in the world of epoxies. They seem to market
heavily to the architectural restoration side of the market.
Mark Potter
bases-loaded@juno.com
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