----- Original Message -----
From: Avery Todd <atodd@UH.EDU>
To: <caut@ptg.org>
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 7:40 AM
Subject: Re: Leg question
John,
Thanks for the reply. The Jansen truck mentioned I had assumed
was one of the "spider" dolly types but from what you say here,
it doesn't sound like it.
Anyway, if I can get the money out of them, I'd much prefer the
large brass wheels. Our pianos are moved around a good bit and
it would make it so much easier. Besides, as nice as the hall
is and how good it looks, it would only add to the overall
apperance. That's probably the way I'll actually succeed in
getting the money. :-)
One question. If I understand all the below correctly, I would
buy the shorter legs from Steinway and the wheels from Renner
USA? Or is it just that the wheels that Steinway carries are
"from" Renner? Let me know when you get a chance. I want to be
armed with all I can get when I approach the Director of the
dept.
Thanks.
Avery
>I see that Ron replied with prices.
>
>Below are a couple of posts from Ted Sambell and one from John Minor
>several months ago when I made inquiries. We went with the shorter legs
>and Renner casters and don't regret it. The original Steinway B casters
>were creasing the new stage floor terribly. We don't have that problem at
>all with the Renner casters. The problem for us with a Jansen concert
>grand truck would have been that, if the piano just needed to be moved a
>few feet, would they really go off stage to get the truck for that short
>move? In time, the stage floor would have suffered quite a bit from these
>short moves.
>
>By the way, we sold 3 of the 6 brand new original Steinway ebony legs that
>were left over when we replaced them with short legs, so we still have 3
>for sale. These will fit models B & D.
>
>John Baird Millikin University
>Decatur, Illinois
>>
>>Darnell casters are available from Schaff Piano Supply Co. 451 Oakwood Rd..
>>Lake Zurich, Illinois, U.S.A. 60047-1516. As there are a variety of styles,
>>I suggest you send for their catalogue; I believe there is a modest charge
>>for it.
>>The wheels are much as you described, with a ball bearing on top for
>>swivelling, The stems plug into a socket which has to be screwed into the
>>leg. You may have to first plug the leg hole then rebore a smaller hole for
>>the socket. The caster stem is then just pushed in and tapped home. This
>>makes the casters easily replaceable in case of damage; just pry the old
>>one out and plug in a new one. Darnells are excellent quality and the
>>design lends itself to piano applications very well. But if you are
>>considering putting them on a large concert grand, it would be better to go
>>to the heavy duty casters supplied by Renner. These are large dual wheeled
>>casters which require an inch or so to be cut off the legs. They are far
>>superoir to putting the piano on a dolly.
>>
>>I know the Renner casters are expensive; they also have a somewhat cheaper
>>aluminum type which is also satisfactory, but I would really dig your heels
>>in on this. Your university has obviously put a great deal of effort and
>>resources into their building and equipment. Not to go the extra mile for a
>>couple of thousand seems "penny wise and dollar foolish'. In our
>>experience, our pianos get moved frequently, and we found that when they
>>were mounted on a stage truck they never go back quite the same as when
>>they are removed. This is because even if the bolts are tight, the arms
>>shift out of position when carried, because of the very heavy weight. As a
>>result, replacing the piano on the truck invariably results in damage to
>>the bottom of the legs. Our support staff detests them, as I am sure most
>>movers do. We put the Renners on all our large pianos and have never
>>regretted it. Hamburg S&S D's come with the aluminum casters already
>>installed, (these also have locks). If you are acquiring a new New Yok D it
>>might be possible to get them to put thse on as an option. The brass ones
>>with the locks are superb, beautifully machined. a set of three has two
>>with locks and one without.
>>
>>We use the large brass mother-of-all-casters on our performance pianos at
>>the University of Illinois. We ended up buying the shorter legs, costing
>>around $275 or so for each. Beats trying to shorten well-proportioned
>>legs!
>
>Avery Todd wrote:
>>
>>List,
>>
>>Someone recently posted about installing new legs with the large brass
>>wheels but I can't remember who. Does that
>>person, or anyone else, know an approximate price for a set
>>of those?
>>
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----- Original Message -----
From: Lance Lafargue <lancelafargue@bellsouth.net>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 7:47 AM
Subject: RE: S&S "L" Damper felt
Who supplies Tokiwa?
I have found the Schaff precut to have wedges lopsided and the thickness of
flats not the same as tri wedges for the tenor also. I find Yamaha and
precut Steinway _from Steinway_ to be the best. I have lots of precut from
Schaff I'd like to get rid of.
Lance Lafargue, RPT
Mandeville, LA
New Orleans Chapter, PTG
lancelafargue@bellsouth.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pianotech@ptg.org [mailto:owner-pianotech@ptg.org]On Behalf
Of David Love
Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 11:54 PM
To: pianotech@ptg.org
Subject: Re: S&S "L" Damper felt
The only problem I've had with the Schaff sets is the thickness of the flats
not matching the thickness of the trichord splits creating a problem where
both are used on the same damper head (the flats have been to thick). You
can peel them, of course, but I've found the Tokiwa sets more consistent
that way and of very good quality.
David Love
Hi Ron.
I use mainly Yamaha felt, and use Spulocks felt cutting Jig,
with a good sharp utility knife.
If you use the knife in a drawing motion, and not like a guillotine, the
face of the cut does not bunch up and become uneven. There are enough
angles on the block to accomodate almost all dampers.
Good investment at about $30 US.
i get my damper felt flush and square with the blocks, every time with no
hassle.
Roger.
At 08:25 AM 2/8/01 -0600, you wrote:
>Who sells pre cuts that are actually cut square? And while I'm at it, I'm
>sure some of you mad scientists have tried various things to square up
>those "back cut" flats. Anyone ever have any luck?
>
>
>Ron N
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----- Original Message -----
From: David Stanwood <dstanwood@hotmail.com>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 11:04 AM
Subject: Re: Hammers and Stanwood
Dear Scott,
I know that many share your view about higher hammer weight adding a thuddy
woody component to the tone. I shared that view for a long time as well. I
have come to learn that this thuddy sound problem cannot be always blamed on
heavier hammers and the positive attributes of a high zone hammer should not
be overlooked.
For example: The Steinway D that was displayed at the NE Regional PTG
seminar in Quebec a few years ago had Top of the high zone strike weights
yet none of that thuddy sound was evident. The tone was splendid. Lloyd
Meyer even called it a "Magic Piano". A contributing factor was that the
hammers were Hamburg Steinway. Hard and dense but with enough resiliency to
bounce the hammer off the string.
Some hammers are felted enough to develop density and resiliency at the same
time. Hardening creates more density at the expense of resiliency. When I
hear that thuddy woody sound my first reaction USED to be to think about
lightening the hammer. Now my first reaction is to consider hardening the
hammer and deciding if the condition of the felt is good for this.
As always the considerations are multiple...
David Stanwood
>From: "Robert Scott Kuhn" <rskuhn@ev1.net>
>While I would not disagree that it is a good thing to have Strike Weights
>in
>the high zone in the bass simply because they do tend to put more energy
>into the fundamental (or at least the lower partials), I personally don't
>believe it is a good thing higher up in the scale. Particularly as you get
>into octave 4 and above. Around octave 4 the hammer/string contact time
>becomes significant relative to the wave coming back from the agraffe. A
>higher SW brings this point farther down in the scale. I prefer medium to
>low in this section of the piano.
>
>I think another benefit of lower strike weights at the very top end is that
>you will get a bit less contact noise or knock from the hammer/shank
>assembly hitting the string.
>
>It certainly helps to use the sprung whippens in the case where you are
>making such a dramatic shift from high zone in the bass to low zone at the
>top.
>
>Scott Kuhn
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----- Original Message -----
From: John Musselwhite <john@musselwhite.com>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 1:05 PM
Subject: Horowitz
At 02:18 PM 2/8/2001 +0100, Richard R. wrote:
>On the side... what did you think of the Horowitz Grand ??
I thought it was a travesty to put a new action in it. Horowitz would have
been horrified. They might just as well have put a Pianodisk in it so the
Maestro could still be playing it for them too.
They gave me a nice certificate saying I'd played it for my wall, though...
John
John Musselwhite, RPT - Calgary, Alberta Canada
http://www.musselwhite.com http://canadianpianopage.com/calgary
email: john@musselwhite.com http://www.mp3.com/fatbottom
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----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Ballard <yardbird@vermontel.net>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 8:35 PM
Subject: Re: Fw: new ivory info
He's probably selling you Tom Rouark's ivory work. Tom gets his
material from from David Warther (?), and Tom's work is meticulous.
Tom is the one you should be interested in. His PN is 978-369-5366.
He's currently laying a set of .085" ivory on a D keyboard for me.
Allan Day (VT Chapter) had him do an new ivory keyboard also.
Bill Ballard RPT
"May you work on interesting pianos."
...........Ancient Chinese Proverb
+++++++++++++++++++++
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----- Original Message -----
From: Kent Swafford <kswafford@earthlink.net>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 9:29 PM
Subject: Re: Touchweight quick fix(Medical tubing)
I retrieved this Ernie Juhn post from my "Saved" folder. Just for the
record...
:)
Kent Swafford
---------------- Begin Forwarded Message ----------------
Date: 3/12/98 11:44 AM
Received: 3/12/98 1:28 PM
From: Ernest Juhn, EJuhn@compuserve.com
Reply-To: ptg-l@ptg.org
To: PTG-L, ptg-l@ptg.org
U1 action too light for customer.
Yamaha sells little "clip on "things" which go on the catcher and make the
action "heavier" for those who feel that they want it to be (heavier).
They call them touch weight adjusters and they can be moved forward or back
on the catcher dowel and that makes them adjustable.
A cheaper, just as good and my own idea is as follows:
Get a piece of vinyl tubing 6/16 od - 3/16 id. (very cheap in hardware
store).
Cut 88 about 1/2 inch long pieces and with a single edge razor blade slit
them open (easily done by standing them up on end).
Finally slip them over the catcher dowels of the action.
It is cheap, fast and above all - reversible in minutes.
Ernie Juhn
----------------- End Forwarded Message -----------------
on 2/8/01 4:37 PM, David Renaud at studiorenaud@qc.aibn.com wrote:
> A use for clear medical hose for touchweight...
>
> Client with a GE2. A Yamaha electric grand,
> with an acoustic style action. Wanted to try a cheap
> quick solution to increase touchweight as an experiment.
>
> I bought clear medical tubing hose, slit it open length wise,
> cut it into segments. The segments wrapped snugly around
> the shanks. Insta-weight!
> Made quite a difference. Only other thing was to
> increase the rep. spring tension slightly to compensate
> for the heavier shanks.
>
> Easily reversible.
> No screws, no drilling, no glue, cheap removable parts..
>
> Any Thoughts
> Dave Renaud
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----- Original Message -----
From: Ward & Probst <wardprobst@cst.net>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Friday, February 09, 2001 7:44 PM
Subject: RE: Used Pianos
Hi Dick et Brian,
FYI
Larry Fine
Brookside Press
(617)522-7182
(800)545-2022 (orders)
(617)524-2172 fax
pianobk@tiac.net
www.tiac.net/users/pianobk
He will have a booth in Reno also! Usually offers a special deal on his
books at convention. We give them to customers when we have to condemn a
piano and feel that it helps to justify our service fee as well as educate
the customer.
Best,
Dale
Dale Probst, RPT
Member, TEAM2001
PTG Annual Convention
Reno, NV --July 11-15, 2001
email: wardprobst@cst.net
(940)691-3682 voice
(940) 691-6843 fax
TEAM2001 website: http://www.ptg.org/conv.htm
[ Top of Page ]
----- Original Message -----
From: <kam544@flash.net>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Friday, February 09, 2001 8:50 PM
Subject: Re: Used Pianos
>... Ancott Directory...do you know where I can order one of these manuals?
>>Dick Powell
Ancott Associates
PO Box 46532
Cincinnate, OH
45246
513-772-2282
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----- Original Message -----
From: jolly roger <baldyam@sk.sympatico.ca>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Cc: <frank.seta@bpao.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 11:54 PM
Subject: Re: New Wurlitzer's Dampers
Hi Clark,
I start by removing all dampers. Remove underlever tray.
Travel, space and rotate under lever flanges, to make sure the lifters are
plumb and vertical.
Next size the guide bushing with a bridge pin. I heat the bridge pin in a
pin vice and iron the guides.
Then start correctly bending the wires.
Carefully check the centering of the damper guide rail and check that it
is tight. I have found more than a few that are loose.
The problem is being addressed at the factory level.
regards Roger
At 09:52 PM 2/8/01 -0500, you wrote:
>List, Can anyone enlighten me as to why every new Wurlitzer Grand I prep
>has leaking dampers, with the heads all leaning to the right in the bass?
> A local guy here said that they do this on purpose, but I can't figure
>out why. You can stop the bleeding by needling, kind of, but what is the
>fix, besides completely re-bending the damper wires to set them straight?
> They are all over the place as to leaning in the bushings, some this
>way, and some that.
>Clark Sprague
>Detroit-Windsor
>Associate Member
>
....................................
Check to see of course which side the dampers are
bleeding from.Usually the left string on all bichords are bleeding.I would
suggest you look at the screws on the treble guide rail too.I work on alot of
Kohler grands and I used to waste alot of time bending wires untill I figured
out the guide rails were shifting. Robin Olson RPT
[ Top of Page ]
----- Original Message -----
From: Kent Swafford <kswafford@earthlink.net>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Friday, February 09, 2001 4:40 PM
Subject: Re: journal on cd
on 2/9/01 4:14 PM, Don at drose@dlcwest.com wrote:
> Hi Kent,
>
> That is exactly what I did being blessed with a 45 gig hard drive. However
> I don't know how to link the index from the reprint kit to the global
> search of the existing 4 index files.
There should be 2 ways to do this.
Assuming that the reprint CD is copied on the hard drive with the 4 CD's of
the 21-year set, simply run the "piano.pdf" file from the reprint CD. This
should automatically load the index file.
Alternatively, you could manually load the reprint CD index file into the
Reader by going to the Search window, clicking on the "Indexes" button, then
the "Add" button, and navigating into the Reprint CD folders and loading the
index.pdx file into the Search list. The list of indexes should include the
4 Journal CD's plus the index file for the reprint CD which is listed as
"PianoTech".
I'm interested to know if you encounter problems with this.
Kent Swafford
Hi Kent,
What you suggest is what I was trying to do--however there is a difference
between the *old* index on the reprint cd and the new 20 year ones. It
seems there is no way to add it to the global search without a file called
index.pdx--and there is *not* one on the reprint cd.
I can of course search the reprint file on it's own--but I was hoping for
the global search.
Hi All,
I thought I would try to post step by step directions to installing the 5
cd-roms that make up the journal offerings, assuming you have a large hard
drive and 2.51 gigs of space free on it.
1. create a folder called journal
2. create a folder within journal called disk1ptg
3. create a folder within journal called disk2ptg
4. create a folder within journal called disk3ptg
5. create a folder within journal called disk4ptg
6. create a folder within journal called PTJarchive
7. insert cdrom disk one into drive
8. open cdrom
9. set a block over all items in disk one by rolling over from ctrl to A.
10. click copy
11. move to folder called disk1ptg
12. click paste.
13. wait
14. remove cdrom and put in disk two
15. open cdrom
16. select index and papers by holding down the ctrl key and clicking each
one once.
17. click copy
18. move to folder called disk2ptg
19. click paste
20. wait
21. remove cdrom and put in disk three; open cdrom
22. select index and papers by holding down the ctrol key and clicking each
one once.
23. click copy
24. move to folder called disk3ptg
25. click paste
26. wait
27. remove cdrom and put in disk four; open cdrom
28. select index and papers by holding down the ctrl key and clicking each
one once.
29. click copy
30. move to folder called disk4ptg
31. click paste
32. wait
33. remove cdrom and put in reprint cdrom; open cdrom
34. select index, resource, index.pdx and piano.pdf by holding down the
ctrl key and clicking each one once.
35. click copy
36. move to folder called PTJarchive
37. click paste
38. wait
---------------------------------------------
39. install adobe acrobat from disk1ptg folder
40. open any .pdf file from disk1ptg folder
41. click global search
42. click indexes
43. click add
44. open the folder called journal
45. open the folder called disk1ptg
46. open the folder called index
47. open the file called index.pdx
48. repeat steps 41 thru 47 selecting disk2ptg\index\index.pdx,
disk3ptg\index\index.pdx, disk4ptg\index\index.pdx
49. repeat steps 41 thru 44.
50. open the folder called PTJarchive
51. open the file called index.pdx
I hope this works for all windoze users! Best of luck!
Regards,
Don Rose, B.Mus., A.M.U.S., A.MUS., R.M.T., R.P.T.
Tuner for the Saskatchewan Centre of the Arts
mailto:drose@dlcwest.com
http://donrose.xoasis.com/
3004 Grant Rd.
REGINA, SK
S4S 5G7
306-352-3620 or 1-888-29t-uner
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